Learning how to surf officially has been on my bucket list for years now. I sort of learned when I lived in San Diego from a friend but got discouraged by the cold water and the inhospitable surfers who were actually good at surfing (true story). Years later, I took a surfing lesson from a tiny balinese boy who barely spoke English so summing up all this experience, I felt like I needed a legit lesson.
My resolution for 2014 was to do things outside of my comfort zone and I knew surfing would be one of them because let’s be honest, surfing takes patience and endurance. Surfers have ripped bodies for a reason, it’s because they are literally werkin their asses off to catch the perfect wave. Then you add in all the elements like rip currents, huge waves, and other surfers. It all just seems so overwhelming.
As I mentioned in a previous post, I planned a trip to Costa Rica and one of my goals for the trip was to learn how to surf once and for all. Luckily for me, Mama also had surfing on her bucket list. There’s something you should know about Santa Teresa, it’s a surfing culture. Everything about this town caters to surfers the food, the clothes, the lifestyle. What was so surprising about our surfing experience was how welcoming everyone was to newbies like us. They clapped when we caught our first wave and encouraged us to keep trying. Surfing here was inclusive not exclusive. Our lesson with Juan Carlos was $40 for 2 hours with board rental. Surfing here is not an elite sport only accessible to the hip and cool who frequent Montauk.
Surfing is such a metaphor for life. I kept mental notes of everything Juan Carlos told us during our lesson. These were the lessons I learned:
- You WILL fall just get back up and try again.
- You have to be PATIENT and wait for the GOOD wave.
- It’s all about the timing and finding balance.
- You’re going to have to paddle out through the waves but you have to power through it because it’s going to be worth the ride.
- The hardest part is paddling out.
Learning how to surf was the highlight of our trip because it wasn’t easy but once we stood on our boards, it was all worth it. It was a great testament that if you’re patient enough a good wave will come.